In the world of horology, Longines stands as one of the most historically significant and consistently innovative Swiss watchmakers. Founded in 1832, the brand has built a legacy through pioneering precision, timeless design, and strong associations with aviation, navigation, military timekeeping, and elite sports timing. Whether helping Charles Lindbergh navigate transatlantic skies or synchronizing Olympic events, Longines has always been at the forefront of technical mastery and aesthetic refinement.
For seasoned collectors, vintage Longines watches represent an incredible value proposition. With in-house chronograph movements like the 13ZN, iconic aviation timepieces, and beautifully designed dress watches, vintage Longines offers the collector a compelling mix of heritage, mechanical excellence, and understated prestige. This guide explores ten of the best vintage Longines models—each with a rich backstory and collector relevance—plus tips for buying, authenticating, and maintaining your timepiece.
1. Longines Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch (1930s–1940s)
Developed in collaboration with Charles Lindbergh after his 1927 transatlantic flight, this large 47mm aviation instrument allowed pilots to determine longitude during flight. It featured a rotating bezel, inner hour angle scale, and was designed for celestial navigation.
Why it matters: A true pilot’s tool watch and one of the most iconic aviator timepieces of all time. Longines still makes reissues today, but originals are historically and horologically significant.
2. Longines 13ZN Chronograph (1936–1940s)
This was Longines’ masterpiece – one of the world’s first flyback chronograph movements, housed in gorgeous cases with symmetrical dials and oversized pushers. Variants include military and civilian configurations, some with snail tachymeters and telemeters.
Why it matters: One of the most legendary chronograph calibers ever made. Highly collectible, with prices now rivaling or surpassing vintage Patek and Omega chronographs of the era.
3. Longines Tre Tacche (1930s–1940s)
Named after its caseback with “three notches”, this waterproof case design protected manual wind Longines movements in the pre-dive watch era. Known for their art deco numerals, blued hands, and robust builds.
Why it matters: One of Longines’ first steps toward water-resistant tool watches, often housing the esteemed 12.68Z or 23M calibers. Tre Taccas are especially prized by military and vintage field watch collectors.
4. Longines Weems Second-Setting Watch (1930s–1940s)
Created in collaboration with Commander Weems of the U.S. Navy, this pilot’s watch included a rotatable inner disk to allow syncing of the seconds hand with radio signals—essential for pre-GPS navigation.
Why it matters: Another aviation landmark in horology. The Weems system influenced generations of navigational watches and exemplifies Longines’ innovation in pilot timepieces.
5. Longines Conquest Automatic (Ref. 9000 series, 1954+)
Longines’ luxury sports line of the 1950s, the Conquest featured water-resistant cases, applied markers, and colorful enamel medallions on the case back. Movements included the sturdy Cal. 19AS and its descendants.
Why it matters: Represents Longines’ answer to Omega’s Seamaster—equal in style and performance. Steel and gold-capped examples are rising in collectibility for their balanced proportions and mid-century elegance.
6. Longines Flagship (Ref. 340, 345 series, late 1950s–1960s)
Dressier than the Conquest, the Flagship line was introduced in 1957 with clean dials, dauphine hands, and thin steel or gold cases. Often powered by Cal. 340-series automatics.
Why it matters: Understated dress watches with the timeless appeal of Longines’ golden era. Still relatively accessible and excellent examples of mid-century Swiss design.
7. Longines Ultra-Chron (Ref. 431 series, late 1960s–1970s)
The Ultra-Chron featured high-beat (36,000 vph) movements aimed at improving precision and competing with Seiko’s Hi-Beat offerings. Some had cushion cases, bold dials, and date complications.
Why it matters: A technical achievement and collectible oddity of the quartz-threatened 1970s. High-beat fans love the silky seconds sweep and solid movement construction.
8. Longines Nonius Chronograph (1960s–1970s)
This quirky chronograph featured a special 1/10th second hand shaped like a “comb” (Nonius scale), used to read tenths of seconds with the flyback function. Built with Valjoux or Lemania-based calibers.
Why it matters: A technical curiosity and a favorite among niche chrono collectors. Its experimental functionality and design make it an icon of tool chronograph collecting.
9. Longines Admiral HF (High Frequency, 1970s)
Sporty and forward-looking, these featured tonneau cases, colourful dials, and the Cal. 6651 or other HF calibers beating at 36,000 vph. Created to attract a younger audience through its energetic and athletic design.
Why it matters: Reflects Longines’ response to the modern era. Often overlooked, but now gaining attention among collectors who admire its flair and accuracy.
10. Longines Military-issued Watches (W.W.W., DH, A-11)
From British W.W.W. Dirty Dozen watches to German DH models and U.S. A-11 pilot watches, Longines made many rugged military-issue pieces during WWII. Most featured radium dials, fixed bars, and robust manual calibers like the 12.68Z.
Why it matters: Military provenance, rarity, and robust build make these true collector staples. The Dirty Dozen Longines is among the most desirable, with W.W.W. and “DH” engravings denoting wartime authenticity.
Longines is often described as the collector’s brand hiding in plain sight. While others chase high-priced Rolexes or Speedmasters, those in the know recognize Longines for its blend of technical innovation, timeless style, and deep history—often at a fraction of the cost. From pilot legends like the Lindbergh Hour Angle to the technical marvel of the 13ZN chronograph, vintage Longines watches offer richness, variety, and incredible value.
Conclusion
Whether you’re curating a focused collection or seeking a single heirloom-quality piece, vintage Longines timepieces deliver Swiss excellence with character and legacy. The deeper you dive, the more there is to discover—and that’s exactly what makes vintage Longines collecting so rewarding.